1995 Latour Les Forts de Latour

Very early budburst. Rather simple, fruity nose. Funnily enough, unusually, this seems less evolved than the 1996 on the nose – although it looks much more evolved. Impact of drought on Les Forts is always very visible because there is very little clay in the vineyards. The leaves turned yellow in Les Forts parcels in this, Engerer's first vintage (which does not seem to have been especially successful for the Grand Vin either – see below). Something a little dusty and dry on the finish. Very stark contrast to the much more confident balance of the 1996. Drying finish. A bit awkward. Much fatter than the 1996. Big September showers after the drought. This wine needs food even more than most vintages of Les Forts. (JR)

Very dark, blackish. Not especially expressive on nose yet. Big, chunky, solid. Not ready. Maybe slightly over-extracted or over-oaked? (JR)

Latour's second wine, Forts de Latour, is now one of the two or three finest second wines of Bordeaux (Bahans-Haut-Brion and the Clos du Marquis of Leoville Las-Cases are two other personal favorites). The terrific, dark ruby/purple-colored 1995 possesses a sweet, jammy black fruit-scented nose intertwined with smoky minerals, earth, and spicy oak. The wine is surprisingly thick and rich in the mouth, with its glycerin and concentration of fruit largely concealing the moderate tannin. This excellent, sweet wine is less powerful, but more accessible than the 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2015.