2018 Sine Qua Non Aperta

Held back in barrel longer than usual (24 months) and based on 38% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier, 22% Roussanne, and the rest Muscat and Petit Manseng, the 906 case 2018 Aperta is incredibly exotic (it reminds me of the La Dorian Condrieu from Guigal) with notes of tangerine, flower oil, apricots, and toasty nuances. With good acidity, full-bodied richness, and just flat-out gorgeous purity as well as balance, this singular white will benefit from just a year in bottle and I suspect evolve gracefully for a decade.

I wasn’t able to taste this wine last year, because the Krankl’s didn’t believe it was ready. “I held this white back longer in barrel,” Manfred said. “The more I saw it in barrel on the lees, the better I liked it.” The 2018 Aperta is a blend of 38% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier, 22% Roussanne, 6% Petit Manseng and 9% Muscat. The vineyard components are 10% Cumulus Estate, 49% Eleven Confessions Estate, 30% Bien Nacido vineyard and 11% The Third Twin Estate. It spent around 24 months aging in 21% used barrels (two to four years old) and 79% new French oak (60% were larger puncheons). The nose opens with alluring notions of honeycomb, toasted almonds, orange blossoms, musk melons and poached pears with surfacing scents of lemongrass and preserved ginger. The rich, full-bodied palate is built with exciting tension, delivering a satiny texture and layers upon layers of apple, citrus and melon-inspired flavors with a spicy/savory undercurrent. Minerals and toasted nuts emerge on the long, long, long lingering finish. This is an astonishingly complex dry white, which I anticipate will age gracefully like an epic white Burgundy. Readers should note that this wine was decanted three hours prior to tasting, and it opened considerably over the one to two hours that I had it in the glass. During its first 4-6 years in bottle, I would certainly recommend decanting it for a least an hour prior to serving. 906 cases were made. Due to be released October 2021.