2009 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

This year's library release is the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, which still retains a vibrant dark garnet hue in the glass. On the nose, it offers up notes of dusty earth, slightly attenuated cassis and pie cherries, plus some attractive herbal nuances. It's medium-bodied and streamlined in shape on the palate, weighing in at just 13.25% alcohol, with a tart, lingering finish and just a dusting of fine tannins. It's an old-school style, very distinct from the ripe, plush wines that have largely taken over Napa Valley today, but it should still have plenty of fans.

An evolved nose with tertiary aromas of truffle, undergrowth, leather, bark and cigar box. Medium-bodied with polished, melty tannins. Velvety and layered with a dense and elegant core at the center. Refined and settled with a harmonious finish. Drink or hold.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is a potent, heady wine. Dark fruit, plum, mocha, licorice, gravel and incense are all amplified. At 13 years of age, the 2009 retains tons of baby fat and intensity. I would consider cellaring it for a few years, as there is a lot of wine here. This unctuous, flamboyant style is a bit shocking to be honest, and yet it works so well.