1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru

Just surpassing the 1991, Rousseau's 1993 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of wild berries, exotic spices, peonies, raw cocoa and forest floor. Full-bodied, sensual and seamless, with terrific depth at the core, melted tannins and lively acids, it's a concentrated, complete Chambertin at the peak of its powers today.

(with thanks to Bruce Khouri). Much more reserved than the Bèze though it has finally begun to grudgingly open, displaying reticent black fruit and earth notes with restrained, pure and powerful, extremely rich, almost massive flavors that offer a core of inner sweetness and then does a slow build to an intense, extremely long finish. At the moment, it is not as aromatically complex as the Clos de Bèze but since this remains impressively youthful in every respect, it may yet catch its stable mate. For my taste, this is approaching its peak but it's not quite there yet. Brilliant. Multiple, and consistent, notes.

The 1993 Chambertin Grand Cru is a vintage that I tasted several times when it was a fraction of today's value. It has long been one of my favourite vintages. Stunning delineation on the nose with brambly dark berry fruit, blackcurrant, damp earth and a heightened marine/estuarine scent that the 1985 and 1990 do not possess. With time it offers more floral scents, wilted iris petals and peony. The palate is beautifully-defined, perfectly balanced with more backbone than the 1990, gentle grip and disarming sapidity. It is complete. Symmetrical. This is nearing its peak, but it will continue to dish out so much pleasure for many years. Tasted at the Rousseau Chambertin vertical at La Vienne.