2007 Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
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From 42 year old vines, the Carillon 2007 Bienvenues-Montrachet received 50% new wood since the only alternatives were 100% or 0%. This is amazingly suffused with salt, chalk, and generally oceanic matter, beneath a bed of citrus oils. But if – as Carillon correctly notes – this has more concentration, more minerality, and more amplitude than his premier crus, they seems to have come at the price of a bit of clarity, refreshment, or complexity. I would certainly like to re-visit this undeniably penetrating and formidable wine, and perhaps the moment at which I tasted it was inopportune. It’s also Carillon’s view that this cru is inherently slow to open, but while that has sometimes struck me as the case (vis a vis Batard, in particular), I'm not convinced I detect a broader pattern, and – if anything – Bienvenues has repeatedly proven memorably expressive in this vintage. Furthermore, Carillon’s 2008 Bienvenues displayed generosity and charm, even coming right out of malo Carillon started picking the last of August, which he points out is exactly a week later than conventional calculations based on the early date of flowering would have led one to predict. He chaptalized most wines around a degree, to arrive at finished alcohol levels of 13-13.5% Carillon’s wines spend approximately a year in barrel – 15-20% new – with the lees stirred, followed by six months in tank. Importers: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Punteggi della critica
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Good pale color. Very closed nose hints at citrus peel, clove and stone. Tactile and chewy but still quite tight and classically dry, with a strong spine of acid and minerals keeping the rich flavors of citrus fruits, peach and stone under wraps. A distinctly cool style, and very 2007. Finishes with excellent verve. This is about 13.5% alcohol, with a bit of chaptalization.
Sexy leesy aromas of minerals, white peach and spices. Dense and intensely flavored, with a firm mineral spine and some unabsorbed CO2 cutting the wine's richness and extending its finish. There's lovely subtle sweetness of stone fruit flavor, but this complex, minerally wine is about much more than simple fruit.
From 42 year old vines, the Carillon 2007 Bienvenues-Montrachet received 50% new wood since the only alternatives were 100% or 0%. This is amazingly suffused with salt, chalk, and generally oceanic matter, beneath a bed of citrus oils. But if – as Carillon correctly notes – this has more concentration, more minerality, and more amplitude than his premier crus, they seems to have come at the price of a bit of clarity, refreshment, or complexity. I would certainly like to re-visit this undeniably penetrating and formidable wine, and perhaps the moment at which I tasted it was inopportune. It’s also Carillon’s view that this cru is inherently slow to open, but while that has sometimes struck me as the case (vis a vis Batard, in particular), I'm not convinced I detect a broader pattern, and – if anything – Bienvenues has repeatedly proven memorably expressive in this vintage. Furthermore, Carillon’s 2008 Bienvenues displayed generosity and charm, even coming right out of malo Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com
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