1996 Vougeot Blanc 1Er Cru

This wine offers a rich nose of minerals and smoky oak that gives way to an oily-textured, concentrated, and plump character with almond and toasted hazelnut flavors. It lacks the vintage's brightness and focus (where's the acidity?) but is balanced and well-crafted. Drink it between 1999 and 2003. Domaine Bertagna is recognized for producing average to good wines. Under the direction of a German (Eva Reh, who owns the estate with her family) and her English husband, Mark Siddle, they stated, "we made the decision in 1989 not to make "okay" wines, but to dedicate ourselves to quality." Importer: Martine's Wines, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel (415) 485-1800.