2018 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec

Altos Las Hormigas’ own vineyard in Luján de Cuyo is the primary source of fruit for this unoaked Malbec. Well-draining, silty-sandy soils enable the vine roots to expand and resist the summer heatwaves. The grapes were hand-harvested, softly pressed and fermented in stainless-steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. This wine receives no oak ageing but spends a minimum of nine months ageing in concrete vats prior to bottling. Vegan and vegetarian. Organic and biodynamic farming but not certified. Impressively light bottle. Well done! Deep crimson. Pure, vibrant, dark hedgerow fruit with the attractively mineral/stone-dust effect that I associate with ageing in concrete. Light dusting of spice, terrific freshness and purity on the palate. Intensely fruited but avoiding unwanted sweetness. Dark and vibrant, almost savoury, on the long finish. The tannins are present but only gently chewy, without the thick texture young wines often have when aged in oak. GV (JH)

The unoaked 2018 Malbec Clásico 2018 comes from a very good year, after 2013 and 2014, which were very difficult years, and 2015 and 2016 that saw lots of rain. According to winemaker Leo Erazo, it's the most complex wine to make because of the many different sources of grapes, growers and the volume they make. But they planted 22 hectares in 2012, so they use more of their own grapes; the wine now has some 30% of grapes from Valle de Uco, which is always a cooler region that is noticed in the wine, which is very balanced, harmonious and easy to drink. It has a dusty note and fine tannins; it's elegant and especially very drinkable.

Bright ruby-red. Clean, pure scents of blackberry and blueberry, with no oak impingements. Juicy and fine-grained, offering lovely lift and shape to its black fruit and floral flavors. An herbal touch adds interest. Finishes with well-integrated tannins and good energy and length. This attractive Malbec boasts very good flavor intensity for its modest price.