2017 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg

This year’s Kahlenberg is concentrated almost to the point of severity, featuring a cold blade of acidity by way of lemon juice allied to pronounced peach kernel and lemon pip piquancy, not to mention with only three grams of residual sugar. But the wine’s sheer density reflects a buffering capacity that keeps the acids sufficiently in check, and there is just enough flesh of white peach to ward-off outright austerity. The aforementioned blade must belong to a prehistoric knife, because the formidably penetrating finish here, projects a striking impression of stony micro-impingements. If ever there were a vinous instance of nomen est omen , this is surely it (Kahl = “bare-naked”)!

When we use the old cliché of mountain-stream freshness, it’s an inadequate attempt to describe purity and cool breeze. The nose of the Kahlenberg lets you imagine this outdoor experience, but adds a sprinkling of salt, a touch of lime and invigorating acidity in terms of real flavour. As fresh as a daisy. (MS)