1999 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos

The 1999 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 6-Puttonyos has a similar bouquet to the 2003, but there is a touch more minerality here, with seductive quince, dried fig, marmalade and adhesive scents you sometimes find in mature Barsac wines. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity. There are abundant, very pure notes of orange zest, marmalade, quince, dried fig and a touch of Clementine. It is quite youthful, more so than the 2003, with a poised, long and shimmering finish. Excellent. Drink now-2040. Oremus is one of the most well-known wineries in Tokaji. I visited their winery in the village of Tolcsva, where their 115-hectare vineyard is located. This includes prestigious first class parcels that belonged to the Rakoczi and Szirmay families in the 18th century. And there was a sense of opulence at Oremus that I rarely encountered elsewhere in Tokaj. It not only infused their impressive portfolio, but was translated in their splendid tasting room, furnished with plush antique furniture more suited to a Bordeaux chateau. Of course, that has no bearing on the wines themselves, which are generally top quality and some of the purest Tokaj wines that you will find in the region. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com