2015 Domaine Georges Lignier Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Dark-fruited and dusty on the nose. More red fruits with air, growing sweetness as it opens. Then impressive density on the palate: fully integrated depth of fruit plus supple, definite tannins and plenty of freshness. Really long. (JH)

Deep, bright red. Urgent crushed cherry and red raspberry fruit aromas are complicated and lifted by rose petal, white pepper, citrus peel and sexy oak; an essence of Clos Saint-Denis. Rich, layered and deep but also wonderfully brisk, with an exhilarating element of blood orange contributing to the impression of razor-sharp definition. Finishes with fine-grained, noble tannins, subtle rising length and a magically weightless impression. A wine of compelling purity and class, this beauty should be long-lived. The yield here was 30 hectoliters per hectare and the pH is 3.4, according to Stehly. Incidentally, this estate is the largest owner of vines in Clos Saint-Denis, at 1.49 hectares. Stehly picks this fruit in the morning because he uses a smaller tank in which it would be harder to chill the grapes. He continues to sell some of his Clos Saint-Denis to Lucien Le Moine, Marchand-Tawse and Jadot, noting that his clients supply their own barrels and take the wines, with their lees, in January. (He also sells some of his Clos de la Roche.)