1995 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard

(13.7% alcohol; 22% whole clusters; 3.58 pH): Medium red with an amber edge; not perfectly clear. Began with a touch of reduction, then quickly opened to show aromas of strawberry, mocha and chimney smoke; I wanted a little more lift. Juicy and spicy on the palate, with the flavors of strawberry, raspberry and balsamic cedarwood showing some intrusive spiky acidity. This has energy but comes across as a bit tart and is unlikely to go anywhere in bottle. Citrus and cedary oak notes persist on the slightly sour back end. Another bottle tasted chez moi was a bit less spiky but more diffuse, of roughly equal quality and for drinking soon before it dries out.