2002 Ruchottes Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes

Initially this opens with just enough reduction to push the fruit to the background so if you're going to try a bottle anytime soon I would strongly suggest decanting it first. Once the reduction clears off there are airy and cool notes of Asian-style green tea, truffle and an array of red berry fruit scents. The intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors display excellent vibrancy on the beautifully long if ever-so-slightly edgy and youthfully austere finish. This is still relatively compact and while it could be drunk now I would advise holding it for at least another 5 years first to allow the tannins to continue to mellow and the finish to flesh out further. Drink 2020+

The 2002 Clos des Ruchottes was one of the standout wines, despite it being first poured at this epochal vertical. Even returning to my glass after two hours, it continued to unfold and bedazzle. It has an utterly fragrant bouquet with fresh raspberry, creme de cassis, violets and incense that is verging on hypnotic. There is brilliant delineation, of course. The palate is medium-bodied with perfectly judged acidity, a shimmering sense of poise and purpose, and stunning mineralite toward the finish. Utterly divine, I would be stacking my cellar to the rafters with this if I could still afford it. Drink 2015-2035. Tasted September 2013.