2009 Grand Vin de Leoville

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has beguiling symmetry, perfectly poised with a peacock's tail on the finish. Just a fabulous Saint-Julien. (NM)

Exceedingly ripe for a Las Cases. Perfumed too. Less intense than many other vintages. Dry finish and, this bottle anyway, wasn't especially long. A rather uncharacteristic Las Cases but, as usual, fresher than Léoville Poyferré. (JR)

Luscious vintage that allows even Las Cases to be generous and almost hedonistic at 14 years old, almost unheard of with this property (helped by slightly higher level of alcohol than usual filling out the mouthfeel). This remains more closed down than most 2009s that you will find, with tannins that are powerful and confident, guiding the cassis fruit while allowing gourmet notes of black chocolate, tarte tatin and pomegrante to surface, along with bitter edges of burnt saffron, liquroice and charcoal. 50% new oak, 3.6ph. Harvest September 22 to October 7.