2002 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon Solari

Absolutely compelling, the magnificent 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Solari Reserve boasts a fabulous bouquet of lead pencil shavings, creme de cassis, spring flowers, graphite and a hint of toast. It has an unctuous texture, a full-bodied, multidimensional mouthfeel, stunning purity and a youthfulness that belies its ten years of age. This Napa Valley Cabernet is reminiscent of a great first-growth Pauillac such as Mouton-Rothschild. Still an infant in terms of its ultimate evolution, its anticipated maturity is between 2016 and 2040. Kudos to winemaker Andy Smith and proprietor Cam Baker. One of Napa Valley’s most hallowed vineyards, with a history dating back to the 1800s, is Larkmead. I have been raving about these wines over the last decade, but I am not sure they are on Cabernet lovers’ radar to the extent they merit. Their performance with age only reinforces what a great site this valley floor north of St. Helena and south of Calistoga is. Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934

(from the two oldest blocks, both about 20 years of age, on opposite sides of the property) Good deep ruby-red. Dee p aromas of black plum, black raspberry, smoke, tar and game. Sweeter, creamier and lusher than the basic cabernet, with a finer-grained texture. Considerably riper on the back end, where the tannins are broad and fine-grained. This has lovely lift and verve.

Good ruby-red. Currant, graphite and sexy chocolatey oak on the nose, with a hint of shoe polish. Richer and denser than the regular cabernet, with a more layered texture and less mintiness showing. A broader, rounder, more horizontal wine with some sexy but subtle oak tones. Finishes lush and chocolatey, with sweet tannins and excellent length.