2006 Riesling Vinothek Smaragd

“Interestingly,” explains Knoll, “the 2006 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung comes largely from cooler parcels of Loibenberg that were harvested especially late. By that time, the grapes had very high must weights, but I think nevertheless one tastes these interesting, cooler notes in a transparent wine that reflects its origins and is light on its feet. These are sites where in many years I harvest Federspiel.” A gorgeous bouquet of iris and citrus blossom ushers in a tiny-berried concentration of yellow plum, orange, and lime. Bitter-sweet, floral, and elusive mineral notes waft throughout this – just as Knoll suggests – opulently ripe yet transparent and elegant reflection of Riesling in Urgestein terraces. My only concern is for a faint bit of heat in the finish, but I would not hesitate – insofar as one can afford the price – to follow a few bottles over the next 6-8 years. Having finished picking the last day of October makes this by one measure among the earliest harvests on record here, “certainly,” says Knoll, “since the early nineties, anyway.” (In 2003, they began earlier but finished later.) While this year’s Federspiel bottlings were by Knoll’s admission “right on the border” of going over into legal Smaragd territory and required quick action during harvest, they nevertheless retain the requisite sense of lightness and refreshment. But if the harvest was relatively hurried, Knoll’s approach in the cellar was anything but, and none of his 2006 Smaragd had been bottled yet when I tasted them last summer. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700