2023 Gigondas Le Claux

Forest strawberry, orange rind, dried violets and peppery elements give way to the outstanding 2023 Gigondas Le Claux. Hitting the full-bodied palate with ripe, concentrated red fruits and masterfully structured around ripe tannins, the 2023 is a delicious Le Claux with class and persistence on the structured ending. The 2023 closely trails the stellar 2022 I tasted last year.

The 2023 Gigondas le Claux is especially successful, unfurling in the glass with aromas of ripe blackberries, dark cherries, peony and crushed herbs. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s rich and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit framed by supple, powdery tannins and a seamless, enveloping texture. More accessible and caressing than the more tightly wound 2022, it will drink well on release but reward at least a decade’s patience in the cellar.

100% Grenache. From a vineyard planted in 1870. Whole-cluster fermentation. Aged for 12 months in new casks (20%), one-year-old casks (50%) and two-year-old casks (30%). Certified organic (AB Agriculture Biologique). Cask sample. Tasted blind. Crushed red fruits, with lavender and garrigue shining through underneath. Compact and juicy palate, with finely grained tannins that give structure and direction. Compact and tightly coiled at the moment, with a herbal and spice grip as well. Clearly will need several years to knit but plenty of character and intensity here. (AC)