2004 Château Haut-Bailly

Another wine that shines in the vintage, the 2004 Château Haut-Bailly has a classic, almost old school-like vibe in its cedary red and black fruit, but it brings solid sweetness and depth of fruit on the palate, with silky tannins as well as nicely integrated acidity. It has some rock-solid mid-palate depth as well, and this meaty, complex, satisfying effort will evolve for another 7-8 years and have a gradual decline after that.

The 2004 Haut-Bailly is a vintage where I feel that the estate went up a gear. It is noticeably deep in colour. Now, this has much more vigour and clarity on the nose compared to the 2003, with blackberry, briary, cedar and mint. Great focus and energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, well judged acidity, lightly spiced black fruit with a marine element that I have not noticed in prior vintage. There is commendable depth and concentration on the finish - this is worth seeking out. The decade's dark horse? Tasted at the Haut-Bailly vertical at the château.

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Good colour, slightly lighter rim. Lively and fresh with a hedgerow nuance to the fruit. Some undergrowth as well. Palate on the leafy side of maturity but fruit still present. Very digeste . Tannins tender and well managed. Firm finish with a bit of length. Step up from previous vintages in terms of clarity and tannin management. (JL)