2020 Altenbourg Pinot Noir

Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter). From a south-west-facing vineyard, 20- and 40-year-old vines. 50% whole bunch. Spontaneous fermentation. Very low sulphite additions. Aged in oak, 25% new. Malty nose but the fruit is pure and glossy and sharp with life, and the energy is upright, vibrant, taut. It was the perfect foil to roasted rabbit loin in a blackcurrant and verbena jus, matching the sweet earthiness and tart, fragrant vigour of the juice note for note. (TC)

The 2020 Pinot Noir Altenbourg is from a southwest-facing lieu-dit and has the same iron-rich marls as Vogelgarten. This is from two blocks, one from the 1960s; the other is a massal selection from Clos des Epenots in Pommard planted 20 years ago. The blocks make up half each of the blend. The nose is full of red cherry but has a lovely herbal lift. The palate unfurls like a smooth, tender, soft, glossy bale of silk. The structure is superfine; tannins still brush gently. Most elegant, wonderfully supple, exquisitely fresh. This will evolve beautifully. (Bone-dry)