2016 Saarburger Rausch Diabas

Scents of white peach and papaya project a riper impression than on the nose of the corresponding Grosses Gewächs, though that might be a function not just of the state of the fruit from which it was vinified but also of residual sugar, small differences in which can have a pervasive influence. But lest talk of sugar’s efficacy be misunderstood, let me hasten to note that the actual sense of sweetness here is extremely discreet. Fresh lime injects bright, animating juiciness into the silken-textured palate, serving as a delightful foil to the riper fruit elements. Like the corresponding village-level feinherb , this Diabas displays lovely floral notes – another feature that might owe something to the presence of residual sugar. The long finish incorporates a mouthwatering lick of salinity, although, for now at least, not quite the complex and savory mineral allure possessed by this year’s Grosses Gewächs. (For background on the Zilliken Diabas bottling, consult my review of its 2015 instantiation.)

When it comes to substance and concentration, the Diabas is certainly a cut above the Saarburg Ortswein (village wine), and its composition of white fruit and floral aromas makes a profound impression on nose and palate. The ample curves of its body and a silky texture may be enough to seduce most palates, but the Diabas likes to make doubly sure with a subtle dose of residual sugar. A piquant notion of fruit peel perfects a superior feinherb. (MS)