2006 Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

Even better is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve sourced from the Champoux Vineyard and the Loess Vineyard, a Leonetti-owned, biodynamically farmed site. Dense purple-colored, it offers up a nose of pain grille, pencil lead, incense, lavender, and assorted black fruits. Like the “regular” Cabernet, it is a modest 13.5% alcohol while delivering serious flavor, complexity, and concentration. Give it a minimum of 3-4 years of additional cellaring and drink it through 2031. It is one of the stars of the vintage. Former mountain climber/guide Rob Newsom’s new career as a vintner began in 2002. His trajectory is clearly upward (no analogy to mountain climbing intended) as these are his best wines yet. This year I was able to visit his remarkable winery which is off the power grid in the foothills of the Cascades. Tel. (509) 548-5858; www.boudreauxcellars.com