1995 Domaine Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon SGN

The 1995 Coteaux du Layon S.G.N. possesses a whopping 265 grams of residual sugar, and was made from 3.5 hectoliters per hectare (about one-third of a ton of fruit per acre). The wine represents the essence of apricot-like fruit. Sweet and ripe, with prodigious intensity on the palate, but no sense of heaviness or cloying sweetness, this wine tastes like honey nectar. Although unevolved and extremely youthful, this wine will still offer splendid drinking after 20-30 years of cellaring. The three wines reviewed in this segment are super-rich, viscous, nectar-like dessert wines. Given their high acid profiles, none of them is either syrupy or sticky. Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474