2006 Gruner Veltliner Grub

The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Grub displays haunting aromatics of lilac, narcissus, white peach, and pear cider. Clear and pure it permits subtly chalky mineral shadings and low-toned toasted nut and roasted coffee to emerge in a finish of length and refinement. This impressive wine – which, incidentally, utterly hides its 14.5% alcohol – should grow in stature and be worth cellaring for 8-10 years. Michael Moosbrugger harvested relatively late, into mid-November, but the resulting richness was not marred by alcohol (even though the levels are frequently high), a circumstance he attributes precisely to having waited for really full flavor ripeness, and been able to pick largely botrytis free. With the exception of his back-to-the-future “Tradition” cuvees, Moosbrugger bottled his 2006 whites relatively early. One has the sense that Moosbrugger’s Tradition cuvees – picked with the intent of fermenting in a manner that prevailed a half century and more ago and given a year or more in cask – often need time to get themselves together after bottling (or perhaps even longer in cask?). “I won’t decide for ten years,” says Moosbrugger, when asked whether he intends to continue or expand his use of methode ancienne. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300