2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel AP 12

Of this year’s two Goldkapsel Auslesen from the Juffer-Sonnenuhr, this is the one that matches the corresponding Juffer’s seductive creaminess and saliva-inducing salinity. Quince preserves and marzipan are accompanied by jellied white currant and candied lemon whose tang helps offset a dominant sense of sheer sweetness. The honeyed, powerfully rich finish, while marginally sticky, is compellingly persistent. Here is a Haag 2018 that really deserves to be left untouched for at least a few years and should eventually reveal greater complexity.