2006 Riesling Unendlich Smaragd
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The product of a year with a warm summer and August rains, the 2006 remains fresh, vibrant and wonderfully nuanced, its textural opulence and 15% alcohol notwithstanding. Apricot, tangerine, yellow flowers and smoke elongate the mid-palate and finish effortlessly in a Riesling that is both unctuous and incredibly vibrant, with a stunning interplay of depth from the presence of a portion of slightly dried grapes and the natural drive of Riesling in the Loibenberg, where this fruit was sourced in its entirety. Time in the glass brings out some of the natural evolution one expects to see in a wine of this age, and yet the 2006 remains fresh, light on its feet and wonderfully detailed. Special thanks to my colleague David Schildknecht for giving me the context to fully appreciate this wine.
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich comes (like last year’s version) from the Loibenberg. The Pichlers elected to start putting Smaragd on the label to forestall questions about the style of the wine, although arguably the Unendlich bottlings have tended to inhabit a stylistic world of their own. Supremely opulent but free of heat, this 15% alcohol Riesling offers apricot preserve and marzipan flavors on its creamy palate, yet tastes dry. A bitter note of apricot kernel offers welcome contrast. As dense as this is, it is probably going to show additional complexity with time, and arguably could age well for over a decade, the effect today is almost overwhelmingly rich and texturally alluring. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800