1986 (Ex-Château)

The 1986 Lafite Rothschild unfurls in the decanter and glass with aromas of earthy blackcurrant fruit mingled with notions of cigar box and red berries. Richer and darker in profile than the 1975 drunk alongside, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, displaying a velvety attack and a lively core of fruit, with just a touch of the tannic asperity that often defines this vintage in the Médoc making itself felt on the finish. As it approaches its 40th birthday, the 1986 Lafite still needs several hours' decant to show its best.

The tannins remain evident, fully in tact, and overall this 1986 is young, profound, full of spiced herbs and freshly turned-over earth. It needs time in the bottle or carafe, because although there is more evident charm in the 1985 on first opening, this is the vintage of the pair that will be around for the longest. Dense black fruits abound, along with cigar box, black tea and slate. In its youth it was described as tannic, solid, almost austere, and it is astonishing how it has kept that character over the decades. There are still nuaces here that will be revealed over the decades to come, so be sure to give it time to unwind if you are opening any time over the next decade. 45hl/h yield. The famous Ricardo Bofill circular cellar was under construction at this point.

This mirrors the bottle I tasted at the property in 2016: blackberry and graphite on the nose, gawky at first, but coalescing with time. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins, strong graphite scents unfolding with time, superb energy if not delivering quite the finesse and precision that the very best Lafite-Rothschild will bestow. (NM)