2023 Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du Bourg

Medium yellow/silver-colored, the 2023 Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos Du Bourg reveals aromas of fresh pear, hay, delicate smoky earth, wet stone, and fresh linen. Medium-bodied, it offers a lot of elegance as it floats on the palate, with a soft stony texture and just a kiss of sweetness. It displays wonderful length combined with an easygoing, springy feel and has a fabulous, clean finish. It’s an incredibly versatile wine for pairing with savory food with some heat, although at this youthful stage, it feels a touch shy through the mid-palate, as its Sec counterpart did at this same tasting. Drink 2024-2034. It’s a refreshing departure from my regular coverage to review the new releases from the historic Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley. I have long been a fan of these wines and was especially fond of working with them in my days as a restaurant wine director, as the estate’s incredibly versatile range of wines presents endless pairing opportunities. This holds especially true for their Demi-Sec offerings, which were a secret weapon for challenging savory dishes with a kiss of spice, where other options, such as Riesling, could potentially dominate and overpower the dish. I routinely used the Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont on our tasting menu to accompany various preparations of foie gras terrines, which often had splashes of brighter accents such as pink peppercorn, rhubarb, or summer peaches. It was a great way to play into the classic pairing of Sauternes, without the wine being too weighted and cloying with sweetness, especially as this was usually the second course in a multi-course menu. It also did exceptionally well when paired with not-too-sweet desserts, such as tangy fruit tarts. The new releases from 2023 do not disappoint.

The 2023 Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du Bourg is like a child hiding under a blanket, much like the 2023 Sec. It coats the palate with its caress. The concentration and precision are all there, but it is closed aromatically and rather restricted—like a flower waiting to open. I can't wait to taste this again in a few months' time. There’s a lot of potential here, but it wouldn't be right to provide a rating at this moment.