2017 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Quatuor

From a blend of vineyards (Nieve, Côte Blonde, Tupin, and Côte Brune), the 2017 Côte Rôtie Quatuor reveals a darker plum/purple hue to go with more Côte Brune-like notes of black raspberries, crushed rocks, spice, and gamey, olive nuances. It's rich, powerful, full-bodied, and concentrated, yet has plenty of texture. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

Aged in demi-muids (20% new), the 2017 Cote Rotie Quatuor is a blend of four lieux-dits: Côte Blonde, Côte Brune, Neve and Coteaux du Tupin. Full-bodied and seductively rich and silky, it's nearly approachable, but it should be cellared another year or two. Notes of pencil shavings accent mixed red and blue fruit, while firm but silky tannins provide support and length on the palate.

Cedary oak and bright, light-red fruit with fresh red flowers, too. The palate has a very sleek, silky and plush feel with smooth red and purple-fruit flavors that build long, even and plush. Drink or hold.