2018 Pierre et Jean Gonon Saint-Joseph Vieille Vignes

Given the growing popularity of this estate, Gonon's 2018 Saint Joseph Vieilles Vignes is likely destined to be a legend reserved for only a lucky few with the requisite trade connections to obtain a bottle or two. It's simply profound, with yet-to-be-seen complexities submerged for the moment in cascading waves of blackberries and salted licorice. Full-bodied, it's rich and velvety but with a solid core of structure at its deep heart and underscored on the finish by a mind-blowing mix of brine and umami, dusty tannins and mouthwatering acids.