2015 Pierre et Jean Gonon Saint-Joseph Vieille Vignes

(made from vines planted in 1915 at Saint-Jean-de-Muzols; all whole clusters): Inky purple. A sexy, explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black raspberry, cassis and candied violet, with vibrant notes of white pepper, allspice and smoky minerals adding complexity. Lush and seamless in texture, offering deeply concentrated yet vibrant red and dark berry preserve and floral pastille flavors that utterly stain the palate and display superb focus and back end lift. Expands and sweetens on a subtly tannic finish that shows outstanding persistence, amazing clarity and suave, lingering florality. I can pretty safely say that I have never had a Saint-Joseph of this magnitude in my career. The bad news is that Pierre Gonon told me that he had no idea when this remarkable but extremely small-production wine would be released commercially but he did say that he didn't expect that he and his brother, Jean, would be in any rush to do so.