2021 Keller Sylvaner Feuervogel

This opens with a greenhouse-like amalgamation of flowers and foliage, along with scents of coriander seed and stalk celery. The palate impression is pungent, saline and lightly citric yet glossy, even lightly oily in feel. The finish grips with amazing tenacity, leaving glowing piquancy of coriander seed, juniper berry and a rather Grüner Veltliner-like pepperiness. But there is also abundant sheer juiciness, coupled to mouthwatering salinity. The 13% alcohol serves for fullness, and there isn’t the animation or brightness of the corresponding village-designated Westhofen bottling. This powerful Silvaner statement is simply of a very different sort; the two wines between them revealing something of this grape’s unsung versatility.