2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs

(30% new oak): Deep red with ruby highlights. Cool aromas of purple fruits complicated by a wild gamey element. High-pitched blue and black fruit flavors are framed by strong acidity and accented by a light peppery quality. A bit rigid in the early going due to its firm tannic spine but this wine shows impressive spicy intensity and inviting salinity. Mortet believes this will be best in ten years.

Dark crimson. Lots of rather sour cherry fruit. So much extraction that it’s a little difficult to see the fruit. Perhaps it’s just ambitious…? (JR)

(30% new oak, vs. 20% for the Marsannay and Fixin): Healthy deep red. Alluring violet lift to the armas of blackberry, cassis and licorice. Rich, sappy and nicely balanced, delivering noteworthy breadth and a creamy, elegant mid-palate texture for a village wine. Finishes broad, saline and long, with a hint of leather. This wine replaces the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes from past years. The very ripe fruit from En Champs brought the creaminess in 2013, says Mortet.