2019 Kir Yanni - Ramnista

A selection of the best blocks of the Kir-Yianni estate. Hand-harvested, then cold-soaked for a week. Some of the fruit is fermented in stainless steel, some in 5-ton oak vats. Malo completed in oak. Aged in French oak (225- and 500-litre) barrels, new and used. TA 5.3 g/l, pH 3.57, RS 1.9 g/l. Gorgeous Xinomavro, redolent of cherries, earth and Xinomavro's telltale hint of tomato leaf. It's rich and tannic at once, still a baby, though its time in oak has taken off a lot of the edges and added a vanilla-tinged elegance. The wine becomes more expressive with air, as it will with more time in the cellar. This really should be left alone for another five years at least. (TQT)

Part fermented in big oak vats, aged in oak of various sizes, some new. Mid crimson with some brick but deeply coloured for Xinomavro of this age. Gorgeously seductive and spicy dark-red fruit, sour cherry both fresh and dried. Firmly chewy but on the way to dry and mellow. Complex flavours unique to Naoussa. Long finish. The oak in retreat. (JH)

Mid cherry red with a touch of brick at the rim. Intense, deep, ripe and seductive red fruits, more concentrated than the Markovitis Naoussa and with a more intense, developed aroma of dried tomato. Deep and deeply chewy. Firmly structured around pure and complex fruit flavours. Still a baby. Quite a grip on the finish, even though it is in harmony. Long, tapering finish and a long life ahead. (JH)