2007 Domaine La Blaque Coteaux de Pierrevert

The La Blaque 2007 Coteaux de Pierrevert represents most of the production of the estate, and that is great news, because it offers striking personality and sensational value. Vividly recalling Cornas (as is this appellation’s want) in its combination of ripe black cherry and raw beef liver tinged with cinnamon, this displays mouth-filling fruit as befits wine made by a variation of carbonic maceration, yet there is a pleasant graininess as well. Black tea, cocoa powder, iodine, and savory shrimp shell notes are revealed as the wine opens up, culminating in a finish of remarkable richness and grip for a tank-rendered wine of its price. Enjoy it over the next two years. (My mouth was all set for the $25 La Blaque 2004 “Reserve” bottling – often an outstanding value – and that wine started out impressively rich, but it was rudely tripped up by wood tannins in the finish.) Situated in the Alpes de Haute Provence, the obscure appellation of Coteaux de Pierrevert is capable of generating some striking, remarkably late-harvested results with Syrah. Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29