2004 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Kammerner Gaisberg

Moosbrugger’s 2004 Riesling Gaisberg displays elusive citrus and black- and blue-fruit aromas. On the palate, it is of medium alcoholic body and weight, but so densely packed and mineral in character you need to chisel your way through to its long, if somewhat austere yet juicy, brothy finish of citrus, herbs and stones. They could label this one “all minerals all the time” to serve as a warning, a challenge, or an enticement, depending on your personal stylistic preferences. What’s undeniable are this wine’s stony origins, its purity and its length. I would suggest cellaring it for half a dozen years. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300