2020 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Im Kleinschock Riesling Kabinett #20

With the precision, levity and elegance – but also the tensile musculature and strength – of a ballerina, the 2020 Riesling Niedermenniger Im Kleinschock Kabinett exhibits tart-edged and crunchy white currant, crystalline mineral evocations and raw oyster savor, along with a juicy, tinglingly bright and subtly piquant white peach core. A bit of struck flint reduction on the nose seems to presage the wine’s overall sense of tension. Forty grams of sugar do not result in the least sense of superficial sweetness; on the contrary, this vibrant, brightly juicy, long-finishing libation should prove adept at table. And it’s almost sure to gain with time in bottle. (For more on this vineyard site, consult my review of the corresponding, inaugural 2017.)