2005 Maison Nicolas Potel Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

The Potel 2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze thus had a very hard act to follow, but its rose petal, licorice, orange zest, black raspberry and cassis perfume are captivating. Less lush and sumptuous than the Chambertin (and, incidentally, significantly lighter in color) this Clos de Beze makes its mark in refinement and dynamic, with a dazzling interplay of floral, spice, mineral and fruit throughout, and with any carnal elements entirely sublimated. The finish here floats with effortless allure across the palate and one’s memory. The reputation of the appellation suggests long-keeping, but it will be hard to keep one’s hands from the corkscrew. While there are four barrels of Chambertin, there is only one of Clos de Beze. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.