2011 Domaine Barmès-Buecher Gewürztraminer Steingrubler

The Barmes-Buecher 2011 Gewurztraminer Steingrubler offers more sense of structure and more primary juiciness to accompany its lushness and sweetness than was found in the other Gewurztraminer of its vintage from this estate. It also introduces a prominent smoked meat character that adds welcome diversity to the overripe muskmelon, decadent floral perfume and lychee that dominate on both nose and palate. There is fine, soothing length here with enough sense of salinity, lift, and flavor interest to strongly encourage the next sip. I wouldn’t hesitate to follow the wine through 2020. In November, 2011, Francois Barmes was struck by a car and killed while riding his bicycle in the neighborhood. This dedicated and innovative pioneer in biodynamic viticulture will be sorely missed by the entire Alsace wine growing community. His wife Genevieve and son Maxime – about whom I wrote three years ago that he “clearly has the sharp wits and experimental spirit to harness his youthful enthusiasm” – will carry on the work of their family domaine and they showed me their 2010s and 2011s on my most recent visit. Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29