2017 DeLille Cellars Doyenne

Bright, saturated ruby-red. Blackberry, licorice and lavender on the reticent nose. Concentrated, dark and a bit youthfully brooding but already showing a rich, pliant texture and terrific breadth. Cassis, licorice and mineral flavors are accented by dusty herbs, with a note of bitter chocolate emerging with air; nicely avoids the peppery pungency of the 2016 version. This very backward wine possesses the stuffing and energy to evolve gracefully but even today there are no rough edges. Blacker in its fruit character and a bit tighter-grained than the Métier, with as much acidity as smooth tannins to support aging. Serious juice!