2011 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale Blanc 1er Cru

The 2011 Nuits St. Georges Clos de Marechale Blanc has a gorgeous bouquet with fresh lime, hints of pineapple and quince that are well-defined and harmonious. The palate is sedate and cohesive on the entry. The acidity is well-judged, although the finish needs a few more months to fully absorb the vestiges of new oak. This is very fine, although I would personally be inclined to drink this Nuits in the flush of youth. Drink now-2017. I was delighted to return to the home of Frederic Mugnier in the cluster of houses that make up the village of Chambolle, his perhaps the grandest and most imposing. Those are not adjectives that would describe the man himself, ever congenial and humble when I met him at the domaine. I was there to taste his 2012s in barrel, but with some free time before my next appointment he kindly offered to show me his bottled 2011s. This is a producer whose wines I have warmed to in recent years. When I commenced my Burgundy odyssey in the 1990s I felt that his wines were outshone by his neighbor Christophe Roumier and felt that they did not quite reach their full potential. However, in recent vintages Frederic has really honed his style and to me he seems more comfortable with the level of new wood that he is using, even countenancing the idea of a grand cru sans new oak. The wines seem “happier,” as banal as that sounds. But they just sang from bottle with freshness, verve, personality and charm – facets of a great Burgundy wine. Most of these cuvees would have been allocated on release, but I am sure some 2011s remain available and they come highly recommended. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

There is enough wood to notice on the otherwise very fresh and pure nose of white peach, pear and soft floral aromas. There is good volume to the very round and rich medium weight flavors that possess good mid-palate concentration and an attractive texture, all wrapped in a lightly mineral-infused finish that offers moderate depth and length. This is very forward and should drink well almost immediately though reward a few years of cellar time too if desired. Tasted: Jun 15, 2014. Drink: 2016+

The 2011 Nuits St. Georges Clos de Marechale Blanc has a gorgeous bouquet with fresh lime, hints of pineapple and quince that are well-defined and harmonious. The palate is sedate and cohesive on the entry. The acidity is well-judged, although the finish needs a few more months to fully absorb the vestiges of new oak. This is very fine, although I would personally be inclined to drink this Nuits in the flush of youth. Drink now-2017. Oct 2013, www.robertparker.com