2010 Château Simian Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Grandes Grenachieres d'Hippolyte

Close in quality to the profound 2007 is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Grandes Grenachieres d-Hippolyte. A stunning expression of old vine Grenache, it boasts abundant notes of raspberries, licorice and kirsch intermixed with hints of forest floor and underbrush. With good acidity, precision and freshness as well as a deep, full-bodied, voluptuously textured mouthfeel, this superb example of old vine Grenache should drink well for 15+ years. This tiny 10-acre estate run by Jean-Pierre Serguier produces 1,500 cases of Chateauneuf du Pape and around 350 cases of their super, old vine cuvee, Les Grandes Grenachieres d-Hippolyte, which is made from 85-year-old vines. These traditionally-made cuvees are aged in foudre or old barrels. Serguier has been managing this estate since 1981, although it dates from 1920. One of the few domaines that is outside of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Simian is located in the garlic capital of France, the tiny village of Piolenc, a 10-minute drive from the village of Chateauneuf du Pape. Importer: Total Wine & More, Potomac, MD; tel. (301) 795-1080

(based on 95% grenache, from vines that were reportedly planted between 1888 and 1948): Deep ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, cherry compote, lavender and star anise. Lush and pliant in the mouth, with juicy red berry preserves flavors that become spicier and warmer with air. Dusty tannins add grip and shape to the very long, sweet, spice-accented finish. Offers and impressive combination of power and energy.

Mid ruby. The nose is not the freshest – a sample problem? Lively, well polished, supple strawberry fruit on the palate. Very juicy wine that may mature relatively quickly. Fine tannins and acidity mark the finish. (JR)