2007 Daniel Vollenweider - Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Portz AP 5

Vollenweider's 2007 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Portz - from a red slate vineyard bordering the Krower Steffensber -is redolent of lily, sweet lime, and quince, with an invigoratingly smoky whiff in the nose that finds its counterpart in salty mineral suggestions on the palate. Delicacy and refinement are allied here with energy and exuberance, yet at the same time rich honey and malt. This should be utterly fascinating to following for at least a decade. -There wasn't much botrytis this year,- in contrast with 2006, explains Daniel Vollenweider, -but what there was, was high-quality- and informed two superb nobly sweet bottlings. The virtues of 2007 including clarity and elegance play right into Vollenweider's by now very sure stylistic hand, and it will be fascinating to see how this collection evolves over the years. Although I have attempted to my prognostications conservative, I am pretty confident that some of these wines will still be going strong long after I have shuffled off these mortal coils. Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444