NV NONV Cockburn - Special Reserve Port

The NV Special Reserve Port is a blend of typical regional grapes bottled in October 2018 after up to three years in used wood. It comes in with 105 grams per liter of residual sugar and a bar-top cork. This comes in with fine solidity in the mid-palate, but not a feeling of precision or focus. That may be because this is smooth and round, although it is supported by underlying tannins. More importantly, it delivers the complexity that Charles Symington mentioned. The overall impression here is of a serious Reserve, clearly lacking the power of Vintage Port but having some useful echoes in other areas. It is very well priced too.

New owners (since 2010) Symingtons have been trying hard to beef up the quality of this leading brand of ruby port. Certainly the fruit smells attractively fresh with a fine assertive chewy end. This was my note in 2011. It is still dry – quite pleasingly peppery – on the end but much richer and more satisfying on the palate now. It's really pretty good for £12. GV (JR)

A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Tinto Cão made by the Symingtons. The main property for Cockburn’s is Quinta dos Canais located in the Upper Douro. Soil is schist and the grapes were hand-picked with a yield of 30 hl/ha. A pre-ferment maceration lasting two days was followed by vinification in traditional and robotic lagares and also in autovinification tanks with natural yeasts at 26-30°C. Matured in oak casks for four to five years. TA 4.4 g/l, pH 3.6, RS 100 g/l. I wonder why we are being shown this old chestnut? Vigorous but a bit sinewy rather than really fruity. Lots of framework here! So much drier than I would have expected! (Is this why it’s being shown?) (JR)