2011 Domaine Barmès-Buecher Gewürztraminer Rosenberg

Outright sweet but with piquant nuttiness offering some welcome counterpoint, the brown spice-dominated Barmes-Buecher 2011 Gewurztraminer Rosenberg retains only a very modest sense of primary juiciness, so that I can’t say I was especially intrigued or sensually stimulated to take the second sip; but its finish is polished and admirably persistent. I envision it being best enjoyed by 2018. In November, 2011, Francois Barmes was struck by a car and killed while riding his bicycle in the neighborhood. This dedicated and innovative pioneer in biodynamic viticulture will be sorely missed by the entire Alsace wine growing community. His wife Genevieve and son Maxime – about whom I wrote three years ago that he “clearly has the sharp wits and experimental spirit to harness his youthful enthusiasm” – will carry on the work of their family domaine and they showed me their 2010s and 2011s on my most recent visit. Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29