1994 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Hengst VT

The 1994 Gewurztraminer Hengst V.T. represents the essence of Gewurztraminer. It tastes dry despite nearly 5% residual sugar. The natural alcohol comes in at an amazing 17+%. Made from 30 and 65-year old vines, this massive, remarkably intense, tannic, structured wine, is a smoky, mind-bogglingly, rich wine that has to be tasted to be believed. Still extremely young and unevolved, it will not begin to hit its plateau of maturity until the turn of the century, where it will remain for 20-25 years. It is a candidate for perfection! I tasted three Vendange Tardive Gewurztraminers from Zind-Humbrecht. All bordered on perfection - they are that pure, rich, concentrated, ageworthy, and impeccably well-balanced. These grapes are often harvested at strikingly high sugar levels, and would qualify as off-dry, medium sweet wines. They are best served with foie gras, or at the end of a meal by themselves. All are made in extremely limited quantities (under 100 cases of each). No where else in the world does Gewurztraminer reach such splendid heights of complexity, intensity, and ageability. It is a difficult grape to handle and vinify as it is one of the few white wine varietals that has tannin in its skin. If yields are too high, the results are floppy, flabby, unstructured, ponderous, low acid wines. At Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer is treated with respect, resulting in wines of immense richness and harmony that age impeccably well. For example, the 1983 and 1985 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminers remaining in my cellar are still amazingly youthful. The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht wines for most of the United States is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state of California, Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.