2011 Pahlmeyer PNV

A beguiling, layered wine, the 2011 Proprietary Red impresses for its nuance, vibrancy and delineation. Grilled herbs, graphite, smoke, new leather and incense meld together in a vibrant wine endowed with gorgeous depth and intensity. The tannins are just a bit firm, hardly a surprise for a wine made from mountain fruit and the year, but the 2011 stands out for its impeccable balance and pure class. The 2011 is Cabernet Sauvignon, mostly from Stagecoach, with drops of Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The dense ruby/purple-colored 2011 Proprietary Red is, as usual, a blend of five grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It exhibits Pahlmeyer’s tell-tale suppleness as well as a sexy, upfront display of ripe fruit, flowers, black currants, cherries and a hint of espresso. It is not the biggest or richest blend made, but it is well put together with no hint of herbaceousness. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years. Tel. (707) 255-2321

(96% cabernet sauvignon plus 1% each merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec): Good bright medium ruby. Rather cool, herbal nose offers scents of cassis and cassis bud, bitter chocolate and menthol. Rich, plush and truffley, but with some herbal coolness giving shape and lift to this essentially gentle wine. The tannins are sweeter than those of the merlot, but underlying minerality contributes to the impression of definition.