2009 Domaine Allary Haut-Brion

This builds nicely, with dark tobacco, mulled spice and roasted chestnut notes fading into the core of black Mission fig and hoisin sauce flavors. Long and very tarry through the finish, but with excellent polish despite its heft.

Two years ago I referred to this as Le Passion Haut Brion, but that name was sacrificed to avoid a potential lawsuit. This is a tiny jewel of a vineyard (just over three acres) right in the heart of the Haut Brion vineyard. Not surprisingly, the wine is stunning. Made from 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Stephane Derenoncourt as the consultant, the wine displays loads of classic smoky tobacco notes intermixed with wet gravel, black currants, graphite and plum. The wine has great fruit, beautiful texture, medium to full-bodied roundness, and a gentle, velvety-textured, subtle finish. As one might expect, this beauty has some of the character of the surrounding historic estate of Haut Brion.

2009 La Passion Haut Brion will be labeled and sold under a new name, Allary, the last name of the 94 year old owner of the property. The 2008 was the first vintage in 30 years. The fruit has been a part of the second wine of Haut Brion, Bahans Haut Brion, for the past 3 decades. Produced from gravel, sand, and clay terroir, and planted with the highest proportion of cabernet franc in the Graves region, 60% cabernet franc and 40% cabernet sauvignon, this soft, elegantly styled wine offers smoke, black raspberry, herb, and spice aromas. Medium bodied and softly textured, it finishes with the flavor of smoky berries. The wine is produced with the cooperation of Stephane Derenoncourt.