2007 Maison Nicolas Potel Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er Cru

I won’t to enter into the mysteries surrounding the origins of Maison Potel’s 2007 Vosne-Romanee Les Gaudichots (and its predecessors) and whether or not this vintage would have been the last such wine even had Nicolas Potel remained with the company that bears his name. I will tell you that this rendition offers the usual metaphorical darkness, formidable structure and grand cru length one associates with its tiny premier cru (consisting of three disparate remnants of what otherwise long ago became a part of La Tache). Peat, morello cherry, and piquantly cyanic crushed fruit pits make for a penetrating nose. Strong but fine-grained tannins undergird ripe cherry and black raspberry while pungent citrus oil and peat-like smokiness penetrate to every recess in the mouth in a vibratory and assertive finish. This ought to have at least 12-15 years of fascination in it. Just to preserve some perspective, Potel rendered no fewer than five different Vosne premier crus from 2007 (just as he had in 2006) of which I tasted only this one. In mid 2009, Nicolas Potel was forced out of the negociant firm that bears his name by the owners of its parent company, Laboure-Roi. (For more about Nicolas Potel’s own new negociant and domaine, see under “Roche de Bellene” and “Domaine de Bellene.”) Other members of the team responsible for Maison Nicolas Potel wines – including cellarmaster Fabrice Lesne – remain in place. I tasted more than half of their 2008s – a line-up considerably reduced in numbers as well as different in particulars from that which had come to prevail under Potel’s tenure (and bereft of some obvious gems) – and sampled a few of their 2007s: the last collection here that Nicolas Potel guided to bottle; an exceptionally impressive one for its vintage based on what I could taste; and one characterized by levels of alcohol (generally under 12.5%) unusually modest by any standards, not to mention those prevailing in 2007. Many of the Potel 2008s were tardy in undergoing malo; a few were not finished until Spring of last year and thus not taste-able when I last visited. No wines had yet been bottled at that time either, but all of those that I tasted were ready for bottling, and where applicable assembled in tank. It would be an understatement to note that it is bound to be awkward for both parties from a marketing standpoint to have your operation named for someone no longer involved but rather competing with you, someone whose wines in turn cannot be labeled with his own name. But under the unfortunate historical circumstances, there may for at least the foreseeable future be no alternative. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700