2002 Maison Nicolas Potel Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er Cru

(100% new oak; this was destemmed by hand, and vinified with about 20% whole clusters) Bright ruby-red. Cool, highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, black cherry, licorice, smoked meat, leather and game. Sweet black fruit flavors are currently overshadowed by new oak and reduction, but this is concentrated, quite rich and deep, if a bit lacking in finesse. A few months of additional elevage will refine the wine, says Potel.