2008 Ojai Pinot Noir Presidio Vineyard Special Bottling

The 2008 Pinot Noir Presidio impresses for its highly nuanced inner perfume and silky tannins, both of which serve to add considerable complexity to the bold fruit. This is a truly striking, beautiful wine. Presidio is a biodynamically farmed vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I admit I have mixed feelings about the wines I tasted at Ojai with proprietor Adam Tolmach and winemaker Fabien Castel. On the positive side, the wines are classy, elegant and also very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. At the same time, it is obvious yields aren’t particularly low, which is somewhat mystifying considering Tolmach works with first-rate sites and is clearly getting pristine fruit. Don’t get me wrong, these are excellent wines?but they could be truly great, and maybe beyond great. The cellars are kept cold year-round, while the approach to winemaking remains quite minimalist. All of the whites are fermented in barrel, with full malolactic fermentation and very low levels of new oak. The Pinots are aged on their lees and are racked only before bottling. The Pinots see 25-35% new oak, while the Syrahs see even less. In recent years Tolmach has begun experimenting with whole clusters for both his Pinots and Syrahs. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Vivid ruby. A complex, spicy bouquet displays candied red fruits, rose, licorice and allspice, with a smoky overtone. Pure, energetic raspberry and cherry flavors stain the palate and pick up a deeper note of mocha with air. Powerful but graceful, with strong finishing punch and lingering smokiness. This comes in at 13.2% alcohol but doesn't lack for power.