2008 Ojai Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard

The 2008 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega, from a tiny vineyard in Santa Rita Hills, shows off a round, juicy personality laced with sweet red cherries. It is a highly expressive wine with gorgeous pliancy and depth, not to mention terrific overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I admit I have mixed feelings about the wines I tasted at Ojai with proprietor Adam Tolmach and winemaker Fabien Castel. On the positive side, the wines are classy, elegant and also very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. At the same time, it is obvious yields aren’t particularly low, which is somewhat mystifying considering Tolmach works with first-rate sites and is clearly getting pristine fruit. Don’t get me wrong, these are excellent wines?but they could be truly great, and maybe beyond great. The cellars are kept cold year-round, while the approach to winemaking remains quite minimalist. All of the whites are fermented in barrel, with full malolactic fermentation and very low levels of new oak. The Pinots are aged on their lees and are racked only before bottling. The Pinots see 25-35% new oak, while the Syrahs see even less. In recent years Tolmach has begun experimenting with whole clusters for both his Pinots and Syrahs. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Bright ruby. Extremely sexy on the nose, which displays scents of red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, star anise and minerals. Lively and precise, with sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors and a strong floral quality that gains strength with air. Pure, highly aromatic and persistent, with lingering notes of red fruits and spices.